My first blog post of 2014… Happy New Year!!! … I hope you and yours had a wonderful Holiday Season!
Have you ever spent time painting a piece of furniture, painting your walls, cabinets, or anything at all; then somehow mucked up your paint job because it hadn’t dried or cured properly? Beyond frustrating right?
Before I went on holidays last year (love saying “last year” even though it was only a few weeks ago… weird, I know) I repaired a table with edge-banding and gave it a flawless sprayed black finish.
Because I was in a rush with my packing, holiday preparation yada-yada-yada (do people still say yada-yada 😉 ), I rushed to get this table staged, photographed, and posted to this blog. Take a look what happened. If you look closely, you’ll see exactly where the plate left its mark!
I’ve been painting furniture long enough to know that paint can feel DRY to the touch in as little as 1 or 2 hours, however CURE time usually takes 3-4 weeks. This is because PAINT DRY and PAINT CURE are two different things.
Paint “DRY” happens when the solvents evaporate from your paint coating leaving the paint feeling dry to the touch even though it is not 100% dry.
Paint “CURE” happens when your paint coating has reached it’s maximum hardness and is completely 100% dry.
When reading the label on your paint can, it will tell you the DRY time, not the CURE time. Through many mistakes just like my table above, I’ve learned it’s best to wait until furniture has CURED before staging and selling. Sometimes this isn’t possible. For instance, if a client wants their furniture asap, I always explain the repercussions of using the furniture before it has had time to cure.
How long does it take paint to dry and cure?
Water Based/Latex Paint ~ Dry Time 1-2 hours – Cure Time 21-30 days
Oil Based Paint ~ Dry Time 6-8 hours – Cure Time 3-7 days
Chalk Brand Paints ~ Dry Time 30-60 minutes – Cure time 30 days
Homemade Chalky Paint ~ Dry Time 30-60 minutes – Cure Time 21-30 days
Milk Paint ~ Dry Time 30 minutes – Cure time 30 days
Some factors which effect dry/cure time.
The thickness of your paint
The surface it’s painted on eg. wood/melamine/dry wall/concrete/canvas etc.
The sheen of the paint eg. flat/eggshell/satin/semi-gloss/high-gloss
The brand and type of paint eg. oil/latex/chalk/acrylic/milk paint
The color of the paint and tints used eg. longer drying time with dark colors
The overall condition of where it is left to dry eg. air flow/humidity/temperature
The number of coats applied
How to check if your paint is dry?
To check if your paint is dry, touch an inconspicuous area with your finger. If the paint is not tacky and feels dry to the touch, it is dry.
How to check if your paint is cured?
To check if your paint is cured, do the fingernail test. In an inconspicuous area, press your fingernail into the paint. If it leaves an indent (like my plate did…grrrr!!!) your paint is not fully cured. If no indent is visible and the surface is hard, your paint has cured.
So do you think I should add P-A-T-I-E-N-C-E to my list of New Years Resolutions? {rolling my eyes and smiling}
I’d love to hear how long you wait for your paint to dry before using or selling your furniture. Don’t be shy… If you’ve had a similar experience, leave a comment! It will make me feel a whole lot better knowing I’m not the only one!
Enjoy your day!
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Hey, thanks for the useful information,
I’m now having woes of my own – I’ve been asked to paint on a tiled surface, and in order to protect the paint, I will be spraying it with varnish.
Most paints don’t stick very well to tiles, so I tried Martha Stewart’s acrylic based multi-surface paint, and a synthetic enamel one. Of course, the enamel one looked great, but when it came to varnishing it on the tile sample I was given, the paint crinkled up no matter how long I gave it to dry! I have since learned that it is NOT ok to use an acrylic based varnish spray on an enamel paint because apparently, the solvents fight with each other.
I haven’t been given much time to complete the work, so I am considering the switch to the Martha Stewart paint to avoid crinkling. I am using Krylon Triple Thick Glaze.
My question is: is it OK to spray varnish over the Martha Stewart paint without waiting the 21 days (as labelled) for it to cure? I’ve just tested it and in the short term it doesn’t seem to make a difference, but I was worried for it’s long-term durability.
Hi Denise! I never wait for paint to cure before top coating. But I do wait for the finished piece (paint+top coat) to cure before ‘regular’ high traffic use. Now I’m referring to furniture – not tile. But I’m guessing it would be the same. Hope this helps and good luck with your project. 🙂
I knew there was a difference between drying and curing of paint, but I wasn’t sure what it was until I found your blog. So I have patiently waited the 30 days, which were up last Tuesday, but I can still put a thumbprint into the piece. I’m thinking the number of coats of paint must be holding me up. It was the first attempt at painting furniture. I put 2 primer Coats on the peace and then four coats of paint for full coverage. The piece turned out gorgeous, but I feel like it’s never going to cure. Is it just taking longer because of the number of coats? Or are the number of coats going to make it impossible for it to cure?
The number of coats can make a difference for sure Martha. So can temp, humidity ect. It’s my guess it needs more time to cure.
THE SOUND
Take your product and ping it with your knuckle and listen for the ring. If it sounds like dull thud your product is not cured. If it rings at the original level pre-painted board it’s cured.
Curious ; how did you reconcile the marks on the table?? Thanks
Thanks for the “cure” info. Just had my daughter paint a piece for me….didn’t seem dry or “hard” enough. Was thinking I would have to get glass for the top….your blog saved me money….just have to get some of those ‘patience’ you reference! 😉
Hi Denise, I painted a small table with a few coats of gloss spray paint and decoupaged the top with fabric . I want to protect both surfaces further,, either with a spray sealant from rustoleum in clear gloss or with spray shellac. Which do you advise and can I wait a couple of weeks to do it? Thanks
Hi Ellen! Either or would work but if you used a Rustoleum Gloss Spray, I would stick with the same brand and topcoat with the Rustoleum Clear Gloss. And so long as your small table is 100% dry, you can go ahead and topcoat. If you wait 2 weeks before top coating, that’s okay too. 🙂
What about acrylic paint like Behr Premium Plus in a shade of white with satin sheen? You don’t make a mention of acrylic paints.
Hi Joshua! Latex is a general term for water-based paints so acrylic paints are under the water-based/latex category. 🙂
Hello. Thanks for the helpful blog I recently painted my old brown woode chairs with sherwin williams urethane based paint which is supposedly their new cabinet grade paint.
This was about two weeks ago I did it. It is still tacky so has not cured yet.
Today I wanted to put on the water based polycrylic on and guess what? It melted my paint away…..
So.. Should I have waited to do this when the chairs were completely cured?.
Hi Deborah! So frustrating, I know! Unfortunately, applying a topcoat over a paint that is still tacky can/will cause some issues. I suggest contacting your SW store and asking them directly. The reps at my SW location are always so helpful and I’ll bet a rep will pinpoint the reason why the paint remained tacky and why it melted with the application of topcoat.
Hello Denise, I’m in the process of building a desk for my daughter. I used MDF boards. Primer was applied, then I used melamine paint (two coats). It is dark gray color. After over 2 weeks it is not yet cure. Do you know how long it may take on that kind of paint? Can I use different paint/something clear so it is more strong and resistant for scratches?
Thanks in advance
I’m using Rustoleum Chalked spray paint. Do I have to let it cure before I apply the protective topcoat?
No Katie. But it does need to be 100% dry before top coating.
hi.thank you so much for your shared tips about painting.ma’am i would like to ask if i can use flat wall enamel on my wooden cabinet as base coat and top it with davies aqua gloss water based enamel? thank you so much and hoping you can help me with this.
You sure can Christina 🙂
Thanks much for posting this on the difference between dry/cure. If you have a chance in the future, would you consider a comparison in dry/cure times among flat/semi-gloss/gloss type paints?
Hi i need some advise have painted a retro cabinet in chalk and an oil based gold paint the gold if i put anything on it gets stuck to it and i had a plant on the chalk paint which was collecting water on its leaves and has dripped onto cabinet and left marks aaarrrgggg driving me insane ill have to touch up gold and black do i seal it or ? I dont want to have a cabinet i cant put anything on please help 🙁
Hi Amy! I recently tried this water-repellant poly that works AMAZING! (I posted about this poly here)I would just be sure that once it’s repainted and top coated, it has had adequate time to cure before placing a plant or anything on top.
I have painted shelves and it takes for-ev-er before books, knick-knacks, etc don’t stick to the shelf. I have seen posts of how to paint cabinets. They flip them over to paint the fronts in just a couple of hours. Uh, they will stick to your “elevating” material. This is not a difficult project, but it sure is time consuming. Thanks for your hints.
Thanks so much for the chart, I knew about curing but I didn’t realize it took that long for it to happen. But I feel it is worth it after the time and effort you put in.
Hi Denise- Just found your blog at the right time! I just finished painting a
chest of drawers with Behr Alkyd Satin Enamel. I read what you said about cure times, but am wondering how soon can I attach drawer pulls and move the piece back onto carpet? I don’t want to mess the carpet or the dresser!
Thanks so much for help here!
Hi Deb – welcome! I attach hardware and move my pieces within 24-48 hours once it’s 100% dry. There shouldn’t be an issue. I would however suggest not putting heavy or sharp/pointy objects on your pieces until it’s cured. Hope this helps. 🙂
I painted my bathroom walls a dark blue. Latex semi gloss. 4 months ago and the paint is still tacky. I have a couple places that kids kit with toy so tried to sand and just balls up it still isn’t cured Is it because of the dark color? I have painted for 35 years and never had this happen. But have never done dark colors.
H Tina! In my experience, humidity and temp can make a difference when applying wall paint. Also whether it’s self priming or not. And from what this contractor forum is saying, it could possibly be the dark pigment. I’ve never tried this technique so I’m not sure it works, but I’ve read sprinkling talcum powder on tacky paint may help.
Hi. I use some of two pack polyuretane paints to spray furniture. Supplier explain me the proces of spraying but nobody can tell me what is the maximum time I can wait to do next coat without rubhing down. Some carved shutters are really hard to rub down but need to repaint them. Is it fine, You think, to paint them after 24hrs without rubbing? Thanks. Blaze
Hi Blaze! Hmmm, I’m not familiar with (and have never used) two pack polyurethane paints so I couldn’t say for sure. I found this article for you that you may find helpful. Also, you may want to try contacting the manufacturer of the paint brand you purchased – they should be able to give you the correct answer. Good luck!
Good morning! I did touch-up work on my walls yesterday, using 4 years old paint that I found in the basement (dated 2013). I bought my condo 3 years ago and the walls were freshly painted when I bought — which means that the cans of paint in the basement were bought by the previous owner. It’s been 24 hours. It really appears to me that the paint is the same color of the walls, and yet it’s also very clear where I did my touch up work. For instance in one part of the room if I look straight on at the touch-up, but if I look at it from the side it’s shiny and quite noticeable. I’m trying to decide whether I need to just be patient for a few more days — or if this is not the exact same paint. Do you have thoughts on how long I should be patient for — or is one day enough to know whether I have the correct paint or not?
Hi Hank! I’m guessing this could be two things. Possibly, it’s the exact color but not the same sheen (ie, previous owners used flat on walls and semi-gloss on trim). Or, it may be the 4 year wall color has dulled a bit over time – very normal. If it were my wall (keeping in mind I’m NOT very patient), I would repaint the entire wall. However, you could wait a few months and see the new paint ends up blending in with the original as they did in this article here. Good luck!
I have painted 2 dressers with black Americana chalk paint. Can I use Minwax water based Polycrylic as a protective coat to finish, or do I need to use the wax on top that’s meant for chalk paint? The dressers get daily use, so I want to make sure they have a good protective coating on top.
Hi Susan! I’ve never used Americana Chalk Paint so I can’t comment specific to that brand, but I use poly to protect chalk paint all the time (including my DIY Homemade Chalky Paint) with great results.
Denise,
I like your blog. I am painting book shelves and have applied oil based primer, sanded it after dry and applied one medium thick coat of Behr oil based semi-gloss enamel in an almond color to the top of the shelves. After 24 hours the shelves look great and feel dry but is it safe to put the painted side down on my work stands in order to apply a coat to the bottom of the shelves. Thanks, John
Hi John! Temperature, humidity and application play a role in dry/cure time. If your painted shelves are not tacky to the touch and have no oil odour remaining, they are dry. But unless there’s rush, to be 100% safe, I would wait 2-3 days for the oil based products to cure. 🙂
Glad I came upon this post. Just recently I experienced some pieces chipping/getting scratched that had only been painted a week prior so now I know it’s most likely due to not being fully cured because I used chalk paint! Thanks for the info!
Hi
I was wondering could you please advise me, i am making hand made ornaments using air dry clay, i have got to the stage of sealing them with a varnish and then spraying montana crackle effect spray , they are only basic tree ornament , what would you advise i seal the crackle spray with to prevent flaking as it is expensive buying montana products, your advise would be greatly appreciated .
I recently primed and painted an old kitchen table. Top is laminate and was painted black, bottom is oak and was painted white. Should I put something on the laminate top to make sure the paint is durable and stays shiny?
For high traffic tables, it’s a good idea to topcoat and protect. A water based poly (in a gloss if you want to keep the shine) works nicely. It’s super durable and easy to clean.
Updating an office kitchen in a comm prop I have. Made all new doors from MDO in shaker style. Tenants wanted glass finish steel blue surface. Used Ben Moor latex applied with air grav gun. Used Flood additive and finished with crystal high gloss clear.
Seemed soft after a month of cure time.
We had to bake them off in a makeshift cardboard oven with a couple 100 watt bulbs. About 24 hrs each. Hardened right up and seem even glossier.
Hi there, great post. Just wondering if you are going to top coat with varnish/sealant if you have to wait until the paint has totally cured to do so? Many thanks
No, the paint just has to be 10% dry Diane. 🙂
Just did the same to my table and I have NOOO patience =S I have messed it up and fixed it. How long should I wait before regular use? It keeps getting a milky color when I place something warm on it. I am bound to have an ugly table if I don’t wait! lol
I painted a laminate changing table yesterday. 2 coats of zinsser oil based primer one hour apart. And thenow one hour later a coat of Behr latex followed by a second coat of Behr latex 2 hours later. It has been 24 hours now and the changing table is slightly sticky. Will this go away? The behr paint said it can take 4 weeks to fully cure. I am so worried about it peeling off. Did I do anything wrong or is there anything else I need to do to make it durable.
Hi Kelsey. If you followed the manufacturers suggestions on recoat/dry time, it may just need a little more time to dry. Dry time is often affected by humidity, temperature, and the thickness of your paint application. As for peeling off, if it was properly prepped/sanded, it shouldn’t be an issue. Seeing as it’s still slightly sticky, I would wait until 100% dry before applying a topcoat/poly for durability.
Hi,
I just painted a desk/hutch with OLD VILLAGE paint. I’m afraid I used the wrong paint as it is a satin finish. Do you think it will hold up after curing for the 21-30 days? Shall I put a sealant on? If so what do you suggest?
Thanks,
Gail
Hi Gail! I believe Old Village Paints work well on furniture and should hold up nicely after it’s cured. If you looking for extra durability, that company sells a Brush on a coat of Clear Paste Varnish or a Transparent Satin Varnish… or you could use a water based poly from HomeDepot or Lowes. Like a Minwax or Varathane poly topcoat.
Thanks Denise,
If I put a sealant on can I do it after the desk dries, or do i need to wait until it cure before applying a sealant? Do you recommend a bristle brush or foam brush?
How many coats?
I love this site. Just found it.
Gail
The topcoat can be applied once the piece is 100% – you do not have to wait until the paint has cured. I prefer applying poly with a foam brush and 3 coats is ideal, however I would read the instructions of whatever brand you decide to use. 🙂
Hi,
I am painting my kitchen cupboards, they are pure wood and had a very old repaint job on them before. I have sanded them down, primed them using Sherwin Williams multi purpose latex primer and have applied Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel HP 100% acrylic paint. The paint says it’s “high performance”. The paint has applied perfectly, I had learned after trying to prime the first cupboard that I needed to sand and actually peel most of the previous paint job off. The rest of the cupboards took the primer and paint great!
I’m wondering what type of topcoat to use? I definitely want some sort of protection so I can wipe them down continuously and not worry about discolouring the paint or it chipping. But I’m very confused on what type of topcoat to use (polyurethane? Acrylic? Lacquer?)
I have painted the cupboards white in an eggshell finish.
Thanks in advance,
Caroline
Great project Caroline and I’m a huge fan of SW All Surface Enamel HP. I use it on many of my furniture restyles for a super hard finish! Top coats can be tricky but i would suggest you go to your local SW or HomeDepot and ask for a NON-YELLOWING poly. Varathane Diamond Wood Finish is a non-yellow poly I use for white painted pieces and to date – have never had any issues. It’s water based, easy to apply and clean up, super durable and easy to clean.
Hi Denise, I painted my kitchen table yesterday with an oil based paint. It’s been about 12 hours and the paint is dry to touch. However, when I wipe my finger or hand across the table, the paint residue comes off on my hand. I’m afraid that if I set the table up, the paint will come off on my guests’ clothes, etc. Does that mean my table isn’t completely dry or hasn’t cured? Thanks!
Yes Adrienne, that’s exactly what it means. To preserve all your hard work, you may want to postpone using that particular table for your dinner party…for at least a week or until it has cured. Then party away. 🙂
Yes as to your question re dry Vs cured. Have just this evening gouged out the new paint work on my new old hall table/bedside table tv stand by putting the tv on it! I am trying to make over the bedroom as a bigger project of making over my life by streamlining possessions into one room – so Ebay old furniture being made over. Note to self: try show restraint with the new desk (cut down and painted up dining table) I love these projects!!!! The VERY WORST experience was the ten dining chairs I tried to paint up with a spray paint in a lovely aqua colour. I used this brand because the colour range is so great, but never again (rustoleum). The first coat went on great, but the second bubbled and lifted, when I waited the recommended 48 hours. So on the next one I waited a week or more but still the bubbling and lifting. Eventually I found the ONLY way to do it successfully was to put on the second coat within two hours, then let them sit. They are still sitting, but at least no bubbling and lifting of the second coat. After that I bought some dulux spray paint for some other chairs, and a brass bed (used an undercoat on the brass). The dulux goes on like a dream, but the colour range is limited and dull! sigh!
Wow…great projects and glad to hear your persistence is paying off Leonie! And I know how you feel. Sometimes with the excitement of a new project or room update – it’s so darn hard to be patient before using the furniture.
I am painting a desk and primed it with Zinsser Bullseye 1 2 3. Do I have to wait for the primer to fully cure (7 days) before painting?
Hi Ray! Often the can of primer will have specific instructions on how long to wait before re-coating or painting. But once your primer is 100% dry, you can paint over it.
I have used a water based eggshell for a shelving unit for books. After the cure time can it be glazed with any kind of resilient varnish? Would it even need varnish or should the eggshell be hard enough to take books and the odd plant pot.
Hi Paul. So long as it’s 100% dry, it can be top coated. And yes, a few coats of poly/varnish will ensure all your hard work is protected when using the shelves for books/plants etc.
I want an egg shell on top of my semi gloss. How much do I need to sand it down?
A light sanding will do Louise. If you take a 150-180 grit sand paper and lightly sand – kind of like you’re wiping down your kitchen counter – that will create enough ‘tooth’ or roughness for your eggshell paint to adhere to.
I have trouble with paint bleeding under both the blue and the new green painter’s tape. I press the edges down firmly, yet it doesn’t help. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Myrna! A few tips that may be helpful- 1) Clean the surface the tape will be adhered to. 2) Try not to stretch the tape while applying because it can create air bubbles/wrinkles. 3) Apply a few thin coats of paint rather than 1 or 2 heavy coats. 4) To press down firmly, here’s a trick that I use to adhere painters tape.
Got it. So it sounds like DRY but not CURED is okay for light sanding. Thanks
Painted first coat of interior satin. Recommended to scuff with 400 grain sandpaper between coats. How long should I wait for first coat to dry/cure before scuffing? Thanks!!
The paint manufacturers label should recommend dry time and re-coat time on the label. But the dry time can also depend on temperature/humidity etc Eric. Once it’s 100% dry (in ideal conditions this may be only a few hours) it can be lightly sanded. 🙂
Hi i have problems with BM semi gloss latex , I can see the rolo marks everywhere , it because it hasn’t cured ? Or because of the rolo ?
Hi Alejandro. Unfortunately, roll marks are from the application of the paint. They do not disappear while curing. If you’re painting in a warm or humid climate, thinning the paint with a little water or using an extender like Flotrol will really help smooth out the look.
This is great information. I bought a very old (probably 80+ years old) kitchen hutch. The wood was originally stained, but nothing has been done to it since. The wood now is very dry and there are splits in the side panels. Should I use mineral spirits to clean the piece before addressing the cracks? Would I use wood filler on the cracks? I plan on using a creamy white chalk paint and a poly (low gloss)finish.
Mineral spirits or TSP is a great cleaner for old grimy pieces. Depending on the size of the splits in the side panel, wood filler or Bondo is ideal for repairs and will look amazing once you paint over using your creamy white chalk paint.
This is a lot helpful. All of them. Thank you so so much, Denise.
I had my plank fences painted yesterday – and it rained less than an hour after it was completed Two coats of white barn paint had been applied. I had asked the painter not to come as the forecast was for pm thundershowers – but he went ahead anyway, saying it would do no harm. Was he right?
Hmmmm, ideally if I do any outdoor painting, I prefer a few dry days… but I’m not a professional fence/outdoor painter Geraldine. If this gentleman knows his products/paints and does this type of outdoor painting for a living – he would know. If the fence still looks good after it’s been rained on, if it were me, I wouldn’t worry about it. 🙂
Thank you Denise 🙂 I am worried as I called the paint expert at the store where the paint was purchased – and he said he would like to see about 12 hours for this type of paint to dry especially as both coats were applied within a couple of hours of each other. Oh well – live and learn!
Thanks again.
Pleasure… and I really hope your fence is A-OK 🙂
I have to paint some wooden cabinets outside. But tomorrow calls for rain. Will it be a bad idea to paint today? It should be dry by today but i guess jot cured yet.
Hi Jason! when painting outdoors, a couple of dry days would be ideal! 🙂
I’ve decided to paint my kitchen cupboards and kitchen. I used semi-gloss paint on the cupboards and want to paint walls now. How soon can I put masking tape on cupboards without paint coming off with tape so I can finish painting the walls and not get over lap on the cupboards.
Personally, I would wait a few days until everything is 100% dry but it really depends on your environment Darlene. Temperature and humidity makes a big difference in dry time so maybe ‘test’ before masking everything.
Have you ever painted a piece of furniture without sanding? If so, what kind of paint did you use? I want to paint a baby crib but I do not want to sand it.
For sure, DIY or Brandname Chalk Paint will work without sanding Veronica.
Thank you so much for your paint advice and information! More info than the paint manufacturers.
Pleasure. Glad it’s a help. 🙂
do i need to wait for my chalk paint to cure before applying polycrylic?
No, but the chalk paint should be 100% dry before apply any top coat.
Might have missed this but, is it ok to put on a polycrylic top coat after a water based latex or chalk paint has fully dried or should it be applied only after the paint has cured? What are the consequences if you put top coat on before it cured if in fact that is the only correct time? I top coated a end table and night stand only after the paint was dry not cured. Have not used them yet through Thank you. Great site you have for sure.
Polycrylic can be applied to your painted piece once the paint is 100% dry. Then wait for the appropriate cure time for the paint+poly to cure before heavy use.
Is it normal for oil based paint to look blotchy or streaky while it is drying and curing?
Thanks!
Hi Randy. Yes, there can be some variances just like with water based paints…especially if it’s a first coat. If you use a proper natural bristle brush for oil based paints, it should lay out quite nicely within 6-8 hours. Give the first coat a light sanding and apply a second coat – and it should look amazing. 🙂
Just one frustration after the other.
Bought Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations. HD had a half off $74 special. Bought two kits. Amazing product! on my recent test boards.
They have a paint coat that is unbelievable. But I bought two of these packages about 5 years ago. I tested it and both the paint coat and poly dry perfectly.
I should have gone with it. But read the spec sheet and it said the self life was 3 years. Spoke with 2 Rust oleum tech people. On said as long as it dries I am OK; the other was wishy washy and said things could go wrong later. She did not know what.
Then bought a dark tinted BM Fresh Start primer. Did a fingernail test many times. After ten days took it back. Kept scraping off easily.
Then bought GRAY Zinsser 1-2-3. Works beautifully. Primer choice finished.
Moved to Semi-Gloss Enamel Alkyd Interior/Exterior Paint. Very nice product, but not drying to touch after 20 hours (a/c plus box fan blowing on it). Another one of your other posters said the same thing. You said wait. Wish I could find out how she turned out.
The brand on the Semi-Gloss Enamel Alkyd Interior/Exterior Paint
is Behr.
Should I wait for oil based paint to dry or cure before adding glaze/stain to antique the finish?
Lin, it should be 100% dry before apply the glaze. Then wait until everything (including the topcoat if you’re adding one) to cure before heavy use.
What is the maximum amount of time I can wait between coats of semi gloss
interior Latex paint at 70 degrees.
Chuck, I’m not sure I’m understanding your questions properly properly but there is no real ‘maximum’ time to wait between coats. You could paint a coat – then go back 1 or 2yrs later and refresh with another coat.
Hi Denise,
I’m painting kitchen cabinets with Benjamin Moore’s interior waterborne alkyd (semi-gloss). Would the dry time and cure time be that of the oil paint or the water based paint that you noted?
Thanks!
Mary
The dry and cure times would be that of a water based paint Mary. Great kitchen project! 🙂
Mary,
The dry time between coats will be between 1 and 2 hours.
The full cure time is normally 30 days. At this point, you can seal with a soft was of you choose. It will make the piece shiny if you buff it too much. I did all of my cabinet in Sherwin Williams Alkyd, and did not wax or seal them or anything. It’s hard as rocks. I probably would have just to be safe, but I dislike shiny cabinets.